The Palmerston has become more than my favourite restaurant in Edinburgh. It’s somewhat of a safe haven that comes with a delectable selection of bread and pastries. Placed in the top 100 at the National Restaurant Awards this year, it isn’t (and never has been) one of Edinburgh’s ‘hidden’ gems. However, without a reservation, you can happily walk in between 9 and 11am for a pastry, a coffee or three of each.

I lived in Haymarket for two years, moving in September 2021, conveniently close to the Palmerston’s opening date. Not as convenient as living merely upstairs from my favourite bakery and, slowly, it started to become a weekly habit. On Wednesdays (my Saturday equivalent for most people) I would pop down in the morning for a cortado and pain suisse, read my book and then head back to my flat, with a little motivation to accomplish some mundane life admin and chores.
With it integrated into my routine, those mornings were definitely one of the things I missed the most when I moved neighbourhoods last Summer. There wasn’t much else to miss in my old flat except the super-king sized bed and listening to the cathedral’s bell practice each Thursday evening. I work in a coffee shop as a supervisor so I’m used to having regulars that I see specific days every week, it’s one of my favourite parts of the job. The Palmerston is the only place that I’ve been that I’ve frequented enough for them to not only remember my face but remember my order too! Even now, when my visits are less incessant, they still haven’t forgotten and I love them dearly for it.

The pain suisse is my favourite pastry from them, rich in chocolate, it’s the perfect breakfast. Usually I buy one to sit in with my coffee and another to takeaway alongside a big slab of foccacia that I have for lunch. It’s the gift that keeps on giving. You can only imagine the mess that I make with all that flaky pastry and I imagine the staff have quite a giggle at me attempting to eat in a ladylike manner.

On Wednesday this week, I was sat next to the window with my current read (Blue Sisters by Coco Mellors), watching deliveries come in and sipping an iced americano. I bumped into an old friend who I first met six years ago and her new baby. I couldn’t believe how much had changed in that time, or even how different I was since moving into my old flat three years earlier. So whilst the errands, the life admin and the pain suisses in my life continue as they always have, I’m a little changed every time they come around. And with each read at my favourite morning spot in Edinburgh, I’m happy to let that time pass around me.

As I get ready to leave, the tables around me are being turned for the lunch service with water glasses and all important bread plates. It’s a pattern I’m used to, having formerly worked in a restaurant myself and the familiarity is oddly comforting. I know it’s time for me to move on with my day, do a food shop, clear my emails etc, etc but time has shown, I’ll be back in no time.


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